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Custom manufactured BBQ Pits, Do-it-Yourself projects, parts and ideas.

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ynot?!
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Postby ynot?! » Fri Dec 05, 2008 10:55 pm

ddlexis wrote:How long are your burn times?


Excuse me? Not sure about your question, but I have had cooks from 5 hrs, to 15 hrs on this cooker...

My last cook a couple of weeks ago was 6-10lb Butts, 2 Packers, 25 leg qtrs, and a deer leg/shoulder.... Put the butts and brisket on at 7:00 am and took them off about 9:00 pm, put them in a cooler for a lunch the next day....

Did that answer?
Just my opinion, I could be wrong!
ddlexis
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Postby ddlexis » Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:56 pm

Once you bring her up to temperature, how long can you hold the desired temperature before you have to add a stck? I always wanted to know how much better the insulated fire boxes worked.
ynot?!
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Postby ynot?! » Sat Dec 06, 2008 12:54 am

I usually add 2 splits every 35-45 minutes or so....My splits are 8" long and about diameter of a coke can!
Just my opinion, I could be wrong!
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Postby ddlexis » Sat Dec 06, 2008 1:52 am

How about the paint? Spray or brush? Did you use primer/how many coats?
ynot?!
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Postby ynot?! » Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:55 am

In terms of the paint, I ran into a guy on another board that had used red paint, so I emailed him for some details. To my suprise he said it was massey furgason tractor paint. You can get it a Tractor Supply! Valspar is the name of it, restoration series. I can tell you this is some tough stuff! I called the manufacture and they didn't recomend it for a BBQ pit. I explained that it would probably never get above 300 deg, and they still did not recomend it, but gave me some suggestions if I do.

So far, I have used this pit about 20 times, and the paint still looks like new. Accept at the bottom where the horizontal and the firebox come together. The paint is still in tact and holding but it has discolored some. It is not visible though. The Valspar paint is much cheaper, than some of the other paints I was using, but after seeing a 20 year old pit that had been painted with it, I was impressed.

Here is the process I used. I used some degreaser like grease lighting, purple power, or castrol degreaser. You can get these at walmart. I mixed about 50/50 water and degreaser in a pump weed sprayer. Spray it down with that really good and let it sit for a couple of minutes and then power wash it. I did this twice! Then once it's dried and masked, I went over it with a paper towel and a product called prep all (auto zone). Wipe with one paper towel and dry with a clean one. Let it sit overnight, I then primed it, you can see that in the power point. I primed it with a self etching primer. Then I put two coats of the Valspar tractor paint on it. Use the hardener just as the manufacture recomends on the bottle. I shot the paint with a HVLP gun, and thinned it just at the bottle reccomends. I did add a small amount of Naptha to it, because it was very humid the day I painted.

I have been very impressed with the toughness and look of the paint though, I have dropped tongs, steel fire poker, and other stuff on it and it hasn't chiped yet that I can see.

I just used off the shelf spray bomb, stove paint for the firebox and pigs..
Just my opinion, I could be wrong!
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Postby ddlexis » Sat Dec 06, 2008 7:05 pm

Thanks for the information on the paint that is a big help. If you do another pit, is the insulated firebox worth the cost? I have talked to some who say you can get 12-18 hours of burn time, at 250 on the inital load of wood before adding another stick. How is this possible? :?

Thanks
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Postby DATsBBQ » Sat Dec 06, 2008 7:33 pm

I can get a 12 hr burn with quality lump in my ceramic without having to refuel, so with a much bigger fire box I could see that it would be possible to do that with an insulated firebox on a stick burner. But that's total speculation on my part as I haven't added a stick burner to my outdoor lawn art collection...... yet :wink:
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“A wise man can learn more from a foolish question than a fool can learn from a wise answer."-Bruce Lee
ddlexis
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Postby ddlexis » Sat Dec 06, 2008 8:02 pm

I got now doubts on the ceramic I am envious.
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Postby JamesB » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:22 pm

DATsBBQ wrote:I can get a 12 hr burn with quality lump in my ceramic without having to refuel


Oh yeah? I can get an 18+ hour burn on my uninsulated, plain old steal barrel UDS on a single load of briquettes and chunks with out having to reload! :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby OSD » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:32 pm

I could see a 12-18 hour burn with one load of fuel with a ceramic, a WSM, or a UDS. Even for a Spicewine, Stumps, BWS, or other insulated smokers if you used a maze with a Guru or a Stoker system it's possible. But on a bigger offset with just an insulated firebox, I find that hard to believe. Most of the heat loss would be from the cooking chamber area, trying to keep it hot with the air flow going thru and out the exhaust and a reverse flow would even be harder to do. I cooked on a Lang ( reverse flow ) before I went to a Spicewine and under normal conditions I added a log about every hour once it was settled in to temp. That's about normal for most offsets. Some do better, regular offsets do better than reverse flows. Reverse flows are known to be a bit of a fuel hog. I could see an insulated firebox extending the burn time out to maybe a couple extra hours + or - between adding more sticks. Unless they are talking a very small offset, but even then it seems unlikely.
Last edited by OSD on Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby JamesB » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:47 pm

Well Jim, while I was poking fun with the UDS statement ( although it was true), I think your right on about the offset burn times.

To be honest, I've never cooked on any kind of insulated cooker, but I can't believe that just an insulated firebox is going to add greatly to the efficiency of an offset. A bit longer between stick feeds, but that would be about it.

Your also correct on the reverse flow eating more sticks that a traditional offset...

Now back to your regular scheduled programming...
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Postby OSD » Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:13 pm

I figured you was funnin', James. :D :lol: :lol:
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Postby Papa Tom » Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:25 pm

OK then I have some more $100 coupons for pellet smokers good through the end of this month if'n ya want braggin' rights on burn times......
tarde venientibus ossa....
ynot?!
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Postby ynot?! » Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:59 pm

The insulated firebox does make it more efficient (sp?), and wood consumption would be much higher if it wasn't for the insulation. Keep in mind, I only use 6"-8" long splits about the diameter of small water bottle. I really haven't tried to actually load it down with wood and let her burn as I try to keep my fire small and hot......

The thing that really impresses me about the insulated firebox, is in the summer when I stand next to it, it's not burnin me out, + the it is easier to maintain a fire to me!

I would definately do it again, and really the cost was not that significant! The mineral wool was not expensive and I just used 11 ga to skin it with. A little more time though....I feel I will get a return on the investment in wood savings alone in a short amount of time.
Just my opinion, I could be wrong!
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Postby JamesB » Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:12 pm

ynot?! wrote:The insulated firebox does make it more efficient (sp?), and wood consumption would be much higher if it wasn't for the insulation. Keep in mind, I only use 6"-8" long splits about the diameter of small water bottle. I really haven't tried to actually load it down with wood and let her burn as I try to keep my fire small and hot......


Small, hot, burning fire is the way to go in an offset!

ynot?! wrote:The thing that really impresses me about the insulated firebox, is in the summer when I stand next to it, it's not burnin me out, + the it is easier to maintain a fire to me!


If for nothing else, this would be a great reason to insulate!
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