Reverse Flow Baffle.

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MLS
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Reverse Flow Baffle.

Postby MLS » Wed May 06, 2015 9:11 am

I am trying to get started on a smoker and I want to use the "Reverse Flow" method. I have most of my material and I am hung up on how to figure the gap for the smoke flow to pass through. I am told that if the gap space is done wrong I will not get proper combustion therefore causing bad smoke, bad temperatures and frustrating cooking experiences. Anyone been down this road and willing to share. Thanks for any info. :scratch: :whiteflag:
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riseabove50
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Re: Reverse Flow Baffle.

Postby riseabove50 » Wed May 06, 2015 9:59 am

I have a humble suggestion (from a non-fabricator) - why not make the reverse flow plates removable or adjustable? mine are and I just overlap one slightly over the other which gives me more room to play with that gap you are referring to. I had my fabricator intentionally not weld the plates in so I could take them out completely if I wanted. makes it easier to clean up any grease that might find its way down below the plates anyway. bye-bye grease fires. just a thought.
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k.a.m.
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Re: Reverse Flow Baffle.

Postby k.a.m. » Wed May 06, 2015 1:24 pm

MLS wrote:I am trying to get started on a smoker and I want to use the "Reverse Flow" method. I have most of my material and I am hung up on how to figure the gap for the smoke flow to pass through. I am told that if the gap space is done wrong I will not get proper combustion therefore causing bad smoke, bad temperatures and frustrating cooking experiences. Anyone been down this road and willing to share. Thanks for any info. :scratch: :whiteflag:

For figuring your cooker openings use this.
http://www.feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html
The R/F plate should be a continuation of the top of your firebox.
I have found the best height for a fixed R/F plate to be 4.5" below the top of your grate with a 1" fall away from the firebox.
The opening opposite the firebox where your heat smoke returns should be as large or larger as your firebox to cooking chamber opening.
I hope this helps and if you have anymore questions feel free to ask. :D
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.

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My Hybrid cooker.
Competition trailer #2.
MLS
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Re: Reverse Flow Baffle.

Postby MLS » Wed May 06, 2015 3:39 pm

At first I thought about doing an adjustable baffle and once I find the right baffle hole size I will weld it in place. Because it is a bit harder to weld in place once the pit is completed, I figured I would throw out the money question and see if someone has already "invented the wheel". Great idea and if I cant get a formula that is the route I will be going.


K.A.M

Great info. thanks for the formula page but, I don't see anything on it about the baffle hole. Your suggestion makes sense.
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k.a.m.
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Re: Reverse Flow Baffle.

Postby k.a.m. » Wed May 06, 2015 4:23 pm

Did you plug in your cooking chamber and firebox size?
If so the calculator will tell you what size hole you need for the firebox to cooking chamber opening.
If you want I will calculate your firebox size and openings just tell me how big is your cooking chamber.
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.

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My Hybrid cooker.
Competition trailer #2.
MLS
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Location: Harlingen
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Re: Reverse Flow Baffle.

Postby MLS » Thu May 07, 2015 11:27 am

I did the figures and maybe I am just not understanding the lingo. The firebox to chamber opening is obviously the opening from the firebox to the cooking chamber. I got that but, where do I enter that number to get the (as I call it) "baffle hole" cut out. the baffle hole would be at the end of baffle plate. I am explaining this because of my ignorance. Thanks for the help K.A.M.
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k.a.m.
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Re: Reverse Flow Baffle.

Postby k.a.m. » Thu May 07, 2015 1:11 pm

Are you referring to the opening at the end of the reverse flow plate opposite of the firebox?
If so then that opening needs to be as large or larger than your firebox to cooking chamber opening.
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.

Image

My Hybrid cooker.
Competition trailer #2.

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